ITINERARY

2024 Summer Season Courses

The following information provides the most likely itinerary for our Beginner Mountaineering Courses. Please note, however, that changes to the following logistics may be possible for reasons which include but are not limited to: higher risk mountain weather or climbing conditions, and unexpectedly high volumes of visitor traffic in the National Parks.

Please contact our Program Managers for updated information on potential impacts to any of our programs.

Day 1 – Snow & Ice • Snow Travel Foundation
 

• 0900hrs - Course Open. Columbia Icefields Campground, HWY 93N.
  • Student Welcome & Introductions
  • Review of Course Agenda & Logistics
  • Technical Gear Sign Out
  • Update on Expected Conditions
  • Student Risk Profile Discussion
  • Review of Emergency Response Methods & Resources if Required on Course
  • Waiver Presentation
  • Campsite setup
     
• 0945hrs - Depart for Snow School - Field Day Venue (Parkers Ridge).
   
• 1000 to 1530hrs - During the Field Day we will cover the following:
  • Safe Movement, Track-setting, Footwork, and Ice Axe Techniques for Moderate Angle Snow Travel
    • Carrying the Ice Axe
    • Self-Belaying
    • The Rest Step & Step Kicking
    • Descending Moderate Angle Snow
  • Self-Arrest - With and without Ice Axe
    • Multi-Position Self-Arrest
    • Limitations of Self-Arrest
  • Snow Anchors including:
    • T-Slots
    • Snow Picket Placements - Top Clip & Mid Clip
    • Snow Bollards
  • Pitched Climbing on Steep Snow
  • Introduction to Belay Station Management
     
• 1600hrs - Return to Icefields Car Park
  •  Review of Pre-Course Route Planning for Day 2

Day 2 – Snow & Ice • Glacier Travel & Ice Skills Foundation
 

• 0800hrs - Meet at Icefields Car Park for 2nd Field Day on Athabasca Glacier
   
• 0900 - 1600hrs - Approach Field Day Site on Athabasca Glacier. Skills delivered will include the following: 
  • Glacier Morphology
    • Learn how and where Crevasses form
    • Learn the basics of how Glaciers flow, and the effects of terrain on Crevasse formation
    • Learn to plan routes in Glaciated Terrain to minimize the likelihood of unexpected crevasse falls
  • Crampon Use and Footwork including:
    • French Technique (flat footing)
    • German Technique (front pointing)
    • Vertical Ice Climbing Techniques
  • Ice Axe Techniques - General & Technical Ice Tools
  • Roping Up for Glacier Travel (Glacier Travel Mode)
    • When to Apply the Rope?
    • How to Divide the Rope for the Climbing Team
    • Tying & Clipping In - Attaching Climbers to the Rope Team
    • When and How to Apply Prussiks to the Rope Team
    • Identifying Hidden Crevasses & Snow Plugs during travel
  • Technical Ice Climbing Skills
    • Learn the basics of climbing vertical ice inside the crevasses of the Athabasca Glacier
  • Crevasse Rescue Systems
    • Drop Loop 2:1 System introduced for all Students
    • Learn to add mechanical advantage increasing to 6:1

Day 3 – Snow & Ice • TECHNICAL ASCENT
 

This Technical Ascent will take place on one of the high alpine Snow & Ice Capped peaks in the Columbia Icefields area. The focus of this day is to bring about an understanding of how to apply the skill sets taught on Day 1 and Day 2, using your newly acquired skills in context during a full-day summit attempt.

Peaks ascended on course can include Mount Athabasca and Mount Andromeda as primary objectives, or A2 and Boundary Peak as secondary objectives should conditions or the group require it.

The Itinerary as follows is susceptible to change pending current conditions at the time of your course, or as the group requires, to provide the best chances of success while on ascent. (Please note that timings for the day are condition-dependent).

0330hrs - Arrival at car park

0345hrs - Review of essential equipment, our intended routes, and plan for the day.

0400hrs - Team departure for the Technical Ascent.

Mid-Afternoon Return Times - See below for average ascent times. An early to mid-afternoon return time is generally the norm on our ascent day.

Ascent times will vary on the selected route chosen by Students and our Guides in collaboration. In excellent conditions, with exceptionally fit students, ascent times can be expected to be between 6-8 hours return. On average, ascent times between 9-11 hours should be considered the norm. During periods of exceptionally challenging or physically intensive conditions on the mountain, or for teams requiring additional time, ascent times can extend upwards of 14hrs. This should, however, be considered to be a rare exception for most students.

The end of our Snow & Ice Technical Ascent Day officially wraps up the Snow & Ice Components of the program, with a switch to Alpine Rock Skill Sets for Day 4. 

Day 4 – Alpine Rock • Traditional Climbing Systems
 

Our day will begin by departing the Icefields Campground at approximately 0630hrs for travel to the Back of the Lake Crag in the Lake Louise area.

The Traditional Climbing Systems component of the course will provide the skills required to place and assess your own removable (non-bolted) protection, essential for protecting rope teams in technical rock terrain. An essential skill for travelling in technical rock terrain in the high alpine.

We cover the following: 

0730hrs - Meet at the Lake Louise Townsite 

0800 - 0845hrs - Approach the Back of the Lake Rock Climbing Crags

0845 - 1200hrs - Our first session will cover and provide you with the following:

• Gear and Equipment Introduction
• Discuss essential equipment for Traditional Climbing, including camming devices, nuts, and pitons.
• Learn to assess the strengths and limitations of each piece of gear presented in a variety of circumstances.
• Introduction to Placing Traditional Gear & Assessment Processes
  • Is the size of the piece correct?
  • Have you assessed the likely direction of pull?
  • Learn to assess rock quality supporting your placements
  • Can you ID any potential for multiplied forces within your protection systems?
  • Learn to grade each placement systematically
  • Learn to build and assess Traditional Anchors (anchors you build yourself with removable protection)
• Learn to create equalized or "IDEAL" anchors using a variety of materials and formats
• Learn a variety of belay methods for use in technical climbing, and understand how and when to apply them:
  • Direct Anchor Belay (multi-pitch)
  • Redirected Belay (multi-pitch)
  • Fixed Point Belay (multi-pitch)
  • Standard Leader Belay (single pitch and multi-pitch)
• Learn to construct and rig your own rappel systems for use as an individual or teams while descending either single or multi-pitch technical terrain

1200 - 1245hrs - Lunch

1245 - 1530hrs - Introduction to Leading Traditionally Protected Rock Climbs

• Introduction to Traditional Protection Strategies for pitched climbing
• Follow a process from our Guides which will take you from your first steps on Traditional routes through a tactic we call "mock-leading", allowing you to practice on both lead and top rope at the same time, and progressing toward your very first live Traditional Lead.
  *** Lead Climbing traditional routes presents a substantial increase in risk, over and above leading on bolted protection. Students who demonstrate requisite levels of competence will be given the opportunity to lead a pitch live during this session, however, this will be at your Guides' discretion. If the option is not presented during this session, our Guides will work to provide clear direction for you on areas to focus on, which will facilitate progression towards this goal, and work to provide you with the option to do so before course close.
  Again - please note: any leading taking place on course will be at the sole discretion of the lead guide in the field.

1530 - 1630hrs - Return to Lake Louise Car Park - End of day

Day 5 – Alpine Rock • Short Roping & 4th Class Protection techniques
 

The goal of Day 5 will be to introduce the principles of peer team short roping. While more commonly viewed as a Guiding Technique in North America, short roping provides a reliable system for teams to protect themselves while moving through 4th class and easy 5th class terrain. These techniques focus on protection strategies that will help students to understand how rope and climber positioning in the terrain can take advantage of the friction available in the system to protect the team commonly without the need to place removable (traditional) protection for anchors or running protection. Venue TBD on course, but will be central to the Lake Louise region. Commonly we will use areas in the Castle Mountain region or above Moraine Lake for this module.

0700hrs - Arrival at Venue 

0730 - 0900hrs - Approach from Parking / Trailhead to Venue

0900 - 1500hrs - Short Roping and 4th Class Protection Techniques Clinic. Learned skills to include:

• Picking up (body) coils for travel Short Roping.
• Essential commands / communications for team travel
• Body Belay's - Strengths and Limitations
  • Hip Belay
  • Standing Hip Belay
  • Hand Belay (incorporating terrain friction)
  • Building Traditional Anchors & Short-roping
• Short Pitching
• Anticipating Transitions (short-roping to short-pitching to pitching)
• Limitations of Short Roping Systems
   

Day 6 – Alpine Rock • Technical ASCEnt
 

This Technical Ascent will take place most commonly around the Lake Louise area, and could include ascents of Castle Mountain or even closer to Lake Louise. Routes for Castle Mountain could include The Eisenhower Tower, Brewers Buttress, or Bass Buttress. Routes closer to Lake Louise could include The Tower of Babel or The Grand Sentinel. The focus of this day is to bring context and an understanding of how to apply your newly learned Traditional Climbing Skills and Short Roping Protection strategies on a full-day Alpine Rock Ascent.

The Itinerary as follows is susceptible to change pending current conditions at the time of your course, or as the group requires, to provide the best chances of success while on the ascent.

The itinerary provided below outlines for our ascent of Eisenhower Tower on Castle Mountain - the most common objective completed on the Alpine Rock Technical Ascent Day.

0330hrs - Arrival at Rockbound Lake (Castle Mountain) Trailhead. Discuss plan for the day.

0400hrs - Depart Rockbound Lake Trailhead for Eisenhower Tower

0530hrs - Base of Climbing Reached - Short-roping & Short-pitching work begin through the lower tier of Castle Mountain

0645hrs - Goat Plateau reached; the halfway point between the lower and upper tiers of Castle Mountain

0700 - 1100hrs - Ascent of Eisenhower Tower via the Dragons Back (5.3)

1130 - 1600hrs - Reverse Route from Summit and Descend back to Trailhead via Rockbound Lake Trail

1630 - 1700hrs - Course Close & Week Debrief

PRE-TRIP Logistics
 

COURSE LOCATIONS: 

• Cloud Nine Guides and the majority of our Guiding Team are based in the mountain town of Canmore, Alberta; a short 15 minute drive from the East Gates of Banff National Park. The course will be based primarily from the Columbia Icefields and the Lake Louise regions, within the boundaries of Banff National Park

TRAVEL TO BANFF NATIONAL PARK:

• For those arriving Internationally or from locations outside of Alberta or British Columbia, arriving at Calgary International Airport (YYC) will provide the most direct access to our course locations.

TRANSPORTATION ON COURSE:

• Transportation is not included in your Course Fee. Students are expected to arrive with their own or pre-arranged group transportation. Short commutes will be required nearly every day of the course, and it is important to come prepared. 
  Students wishing to carpool with others should prepare for this well in advance, and have a plan for shared transportation prior to course start.
   
• A personal vehicle or rental car is our suggested transportation mode.
   
• Cloud Nine Program Managers are happy to provide you with options for Rental Cars, or Group Transfers from Calgary to Canmore/Banff/Lake Louise in advance of the course. Please contact us for details.

ARRIVAL IN CANMORE / LAKE LOUISE & ACCOMMODATION PRE-COURSE:

• Commonly, our Students arrive a day or two in advance of the course to get settled and prepare for the program. Generally, we would suggest basing yourself in the Canmore or Banff area prior to the program. These two towns are where you will find the broadest accommodation options and amenities to aid you in preparing for the course. We would suggest the following accommodation options pre-course:

   

  • CANMORE 
    ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA
    THE PAINTBOX LODGE

  • BANFF
    BUFFALOBERRY LODGE

  • LAKE LOUISE
    CANADIAN ALPINE CENTRE
    THE POST HOTEL
    ​​​​

TRIP FOOD & MEAL PROGRAMS:

• We can provide local food outfits that provide complete meal programs for your selected program. They offer the perfect diet and calorie count for your day in the mountains. Please contact our Program Managers for more information on this. 

NATIONAL PARK ENTRY PASSES: 

• Students are responsible for obtaining a National Park entry pass for the duration of the course.

GEAR PURCHASES PRE-TRIP:

For those looking to purchase gear and equipment prior to your course, we would suggest the following local Bow Valley retailers:

• Vertical Addiction
  • Located in Canmore, Vertical Addiction offers a complete selection of technical climbing, mountaineering, and ski equipment along with a broad selection of technical clothing. 
     
• SkiUphill
  • Located in Canmore, SkiUphill is a collective of experience driven individuals each with their own history, knowledge and stories of getting out there and getting after it. They offer expertise in backcountry skiing, trail running, climbing and any combination of those activities all while offering the best selection of curated equipment. 
     
• Monods Sports
  • Located in Banff, Monods is one of the longest operating outdoor equipment and clothing retailers in the Bow Valley. Monods has a large selection of technical clothing and equipment offerings.
     
• Ortovox
  • Our Partners at Ortovox are known for their high-quality technical outerwear and are a supporting partner of C9G and our ski guiding programs.
     
• Black Diamond Equipment
  • Black Diamond Equipment has been providing skiers and alpinists with technical equipment since 1989, and is a supporting partner of C9G and our guided ski programs.

On Course Logistics
 

DURATION & PROGRAM FLOW:

The Beginner Mountaineering Course is a 6-Day Program, offered between June 1st and October 1st each summer season. 

The Course is divided into 2 main modules, each providing 3 days of focused training. During each three day module, the course provides two training and skills work days followed by a technical alpine ascent for a total of 4 days, or dedicated skills training and 2 full-day alpine summit attempts during the program.

• Module 1 - 3 Days / Snow & Ice Foundation + Technical Alpine Ascent
• Module 2 - 3 Days / Alpine Rock Foundation + Technical Alpine Ascent

ACCOMMODATION:

Students are to provide their own accommodation throughout the program. Below are some recommendations for accommodation sites for each of the programs. 

The Icefields Campground: 

HERE, you find the campground location  for reference. This campground is limited to tents only (no RV's), and typically in the past has been considered to be the "climbers' campground". There are outhouses, cooking shelters with wood burning stoves, bear-proof food storage lockers, and a water source that is treated and available for camper use. This campground makes for an excellent base for the Snow & Ice Modules of the course as it is only a short 5min drive from our trailheads, its location allowing us to be on the glacier ice in under 40min from departure.

The HI Lake Louise Alpine Center:

This accommodation option serves us well during the Alpine Rock Modules of the course. Returning to indoor accommodation mid-week allows for restful evenings, showers, and ample space to pack and prep for your next course day. It should be noted that accommodation will be shared with other course participants during our time here. Private room options exist, and you can upgrade your stay by contacting our Program Managers for pricing and availability. 

REQUIRED EQUIPMENT

The following is and Gear, Clothing, and Equipment list. You will be required to arrive with these items on course.

• Gaiters (optional)
• Trekking Pole
• Water Bottle or Collapsible Water Bladder (1L)
• Topographic Maps (optional)
• Compass (optional) 
• Smartphone GPS App (Gaia & FATMAP)
  • We suggest a subscription to both products for better functionality in the field.
• Cramponable Mountaineering Boots (Contact our Program Managers for suggestions)
• Light Mountaineering Boot (optional - for Alpine Rock Ascents)
• Rock Shoes
• Chalk Bag
• Sunglasses + Spares (CAT3-4 Protection Suggested)
• Personal Blister Kit
• Personal First Aid Kit
• Sunscreen (min. SPF 50+)
• Camera, batteries, memory cards & accessories
• Daypack (at minimum, 1x 35-40L backpack. In addition a 30L option may be appropriate for some days)
• Camp Footwear (flip-flops or similar)
• Laptop & Charger with Google Earth downloaded to hard drive
• Cooking equipment if you will be bringing your own food

ESSENTIAL CLOTHING

• Merino Wool Blend Socks (no cotton please)
• Base Layer
• Mid Layer
• Long Underwear (bottoms)
• Softshell Pants
• Softshell Jacket
• Gore-Tex Jacket
• Gore-Tex Pant
• Warm Hat
• 2 X Buff Style Neck Tube / Headband
• Sunhat (ball cap or full brim bucket style)
• Large Gloves (ski gloves or similar)
• Thin Insulated Gloves (multiple pairs [3 min] for rope work)

OVERNIGHT ITEMS

• Personal Tent
  • alternatively, you can opt in to rent one from us for $25
  • if needing a full camping setup, check out the 'Magog Package' available through Snowtips Bactrax in Banff
• 3-Season Rated Sleeping Bag (rated to -7˚C / -9˚C)
• Alarm Clock (or Smartphone)
• Lighter / Matches (optional)
• Toiletries + Personal Hand Sanitizer Supply
• Headlamp with 3 spare sets of fresh batteries
• iPod, Book or other Personal Entertainment for Camp (optional)
• Earplugs (optional)

Provided by Cloud Nine

The following gear and equipment is generally provided by us, and included in your course fee. However, if you have the following items, please feel free to bring them with you on course:

EQUIPMENT

• Helmet 
• Rock Harness
• Lightweight Mountaineering Harness
• Quickdraws
• 120cm Sewn Slings
• 3 Locking Carabiners
• 3 Non-Locking Carabiners
• Belay Device (We suggest the ATC Guide or similar)
• Climbing Rope (selection of lengths and diameters)
• 2 X 5m Prussiks @ 6mm
• 1 Hollow Block or 1 X 1m Prussik @ 6mm
• 1 Mechanical Ascender (Petzl Micro Traction Suggested)
• Traditional Climbing Protection (cams, nuts, pitons, hammer etc)
• Nut Tool
• Mountaineering Axe
• Technical Ice Tools
• Avalanche Transceiver, Probe, and Shovel if required
• Crampons
• Ice Screws
• V-Thread Hooker

COOKING EQUIPMENT WITH THE MEAL PROGRAM

• If you have ordered a meal program through us, all cooking equipment, including stoves, will be provided. There is no need to bring your own. 
• Some students like to have small, personal canister stoves along with them for the week. Models we like are the MSR Reactor or Jetboil Products. Choosing a "winter mix" fuel will often give better performance at higher elevations where temperatures are colder.

TRIP CANCELLATION & INTERRUPTION INSURANCE

Portions or the balance of your Beginner Mountaineering Course may be non-refundable. The best method to protect your investment with us should unforeseen arise, requiring you cancel your booking, is to purchase a Trip Cancellation & Interruption Insurance Policy. 

Lifestyle Insurance has covered many of Cloud Nine Guests on trips all over the world, and we have first-hand experience seeing these policies activated by our Guests. 

Safeguard your trip costs and investment with us. Request a Quote from Lifestyle Financial.

Is this coverage required?

• For Canadian Residents, coverage is suggested but not required to register.
• For Non-Canadian Citizens, coverage is suggested but not required. It is strongly suggested that your policy includes Emergency Medical Coverage, unless you carry an alternative policy which will respond in the event of medical emergency.

WAIVER - Release of Liability & Indemnity Agreement

Prior to booking you will be required to acknowledge that you have been provided a copy of our Waiver of Liability Agreement for your review. All participants, or their legal guardians wishing to participate on any Cloud Nine Programs, must acknowledge that they have been presented this document in advance of booking, have read it in its entirety, and understand the agreement being entered into by signing. While there is no obligation to enter into this agreement with us, it is a condition of our service provision. 

  REVIEW OUR WAIVER OF LIABILITY HERE

Booking TErms & Conditions

Before you book your course, please review our Booking Terms & Conditions. We do not accept bookings without your voluntary acceptance of these terms. Please read carefully as these terms outline specific policies and guidance for both our staff and clients with respect to refunds, cancellations, rescheduling etc.

  REVIEW OUR BOOKING TERMS & CONDITIONS HERE

Book A PRIVATE GROUP Beginner Mountaineering Course.

For those who prefer our smallest and most focused learning environments. Groups of 4+ can book a Private Group Beginner Mountaineering Course on course dates that suit you and your crew best, and one of our ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guides will join you on your terms. You pick the Group Size, and have the option of alternative venues and dates outside those available on our Public Courses. 

Group Booking Discounts of between 5-15% are available depending on total participants.

How Do We Book It?

Contact our office  to confirm availability for your preferred dates. We'll provide you with a private booking link for you and your group to register either together or individually.