Trip & Conditions Report - Bugaboos / August 2-5, 2016

Bugaboos Conditions and Trip Report     Aug 2-5, 2016


I just returned from another Buggaboos Trip. Once again we were treated to a full range of conditions, from T-shirt lounging weather to a chilling, windy evening that had us cooking while wrapped in our sleeping bags.

The mixed weather kept things quiet at Applebee, there was plenty of room and all the tent sites are now snow free.

It rained hard on the night of August 2nd. On Wednesday, August 3rd, we climbed East Post Spire while waiting for the rain to subside and then climbed the Hounds Tooth under cloudy skies in the afternoon. Accessing the glacier below the Son of Snow patch could just barely be done on snow, but it will be ice in a couple of days. Multiple large boulders are still perched on the melting ice above this access point, not a place to linger. Once on the glacier, travel across to the Hounds Tooth is straight forward with crevasses still being well bridged.

On Thursday, August 4th, We climbed the West Ridge of Pigeon. The route and access are in good shape. There is still a bit of snow on the ledges where the route wraps onto the north face, but it is easily navigated. Our early start paid off is spades as we were the first party to the summit and we passed multiple parties and several traffic jams on our descent.

The glacier travel in general and the Bugaboos-Snowpatch Col specifically continue to be in good condition. Currently the final 20 feet of the Col are melted back to rocks and gravel. Here one must be careful  not to dislodge rocks on parties below. People have also been using the gully to climbers left, although I'm not sure of its condition at the top, this second route is reducing some of the congestion at the col. There is also a 50m knotted fixed rope hanging off the top fixed anchor.

The Snowpatch East Face routes are starting to look dry, although classically wet sections are still seeping (Sendero P2 and Sweet Silvia P2). Lots of tracks coming down off of the South Howser tower indicate that the Howser West Face routes are getting some traffic.


Assiniboine this week, details to come. 


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