The Summits & Routes! The Bugaboos

Bugaboo Spire - 3204m

North East Ridge: D- 5.8

The North East Ridge of Bugaboo Spire is one of the most classic lines in the Bugaboos and one of Roper and Steck's famed 50 Classic Climbs in North America. From the Kain Hut we ascend the Crescent Basin, crossing the Crescent Glacier to the foot of the Bugaboo/Crescent Col. A few easy pitches give access to the col proper where we travel a short distance moving through easier 4th class terrain before the start of the 5th class climbing. 12 pitches up to 5.8 in difficulty lead to the North Summit where we then traverse over to the South Summit and descend the Kain Route, returning to the hut via the Bugaboo/Snopatch Col.

 

Kain Route: PD+ 5.6

The first ascent route was guided by Conrad Kain in 1916, and for many is the sole motivation for a trip into the Bugaboos. From the Conrad Kain Hut an early start has us climbing toward the Bugaboo/Snowpatch Col. From the Col we work our way, often by headlamp, through the lower 3rd and 4th class sections of the route. Interspersed with a few longer pitches, this deposits us at the base of the infamous Gendarme. This is the technical crux of the route. After pulling around and over the Gendarme, the South Summit is now only a few short pitches away. Descent is via the same route.

 

Snowpatch Spire - 3084m

Snowpatch Route: D- 5.8 19 Pitches 

This was the line of first ascent up Snowpatch Spire (wasn't climbed until 1940). A long day over mostly moderate terrain, with the descent down the Kraus-McKarthy route on the West Face.

 

Surf's Up: D 5.9 9 Pitches

Stellar crack climbing up the South West Ridge of Snowpatch Spire. This route finishes on the summit ridge, traversing to the South Summit. Descent is via the Kraus-McKarthy o nthe West Face. 

 

Pidgeon Spire - 3156m

West Ridge: PD 5.4

Likely one of the most popular routes in the Bugaboos. The aesthetics and stunning positions on the ridge make this an area classic. The climbing is never overly difficult or sustained. Approach from the Kain Hut is vai the Bugaboo/Snowpatch Col. The descent retraces the climbing line down to the Pidgeon/Howser Col where we then traverse back across to the B/S Col to descend back to the hut.

 

Howser Towers

Becky / Chouinard: ED1 5.10- 20-22 Pitches

The Becky-Chouinard is one of the best alpine routes in North America. An immaculate line, climbing up to 5.10, and a proper wilderness feel make it one of, if not the best route in the Bugaboos. Guests interested in an ascent will need a strong rock climbing background and be used to moving efficiently with their guides on longer routes. For guests new to Cloud Nine Guides we strongly suggest spending a few days climbing some of the other long classics in the area prior to an ascent of the Becky Chouinard.
A surcharge will apply due to the length and complexity of this objective.

 

Others Stellar Objectives 

In addition to the above the following are a few other excellent routes in the area that we often guide and climb with our guests.

  • McTech Arete:  D- 5.10- 6 Pitches
  • Lion's Way: PD+ 5.6 6 Pitches
  • Ears Between: AD 5.7 6 Pitches
  • Sunshine Crack: D+ 5.11- 9 Pitches
     

During periods of inclement weather where more technical climbing is not always possible, the following general mountaineering objectives will often still allow for ascents and summits.

  • The Hounds Tooth 
  • The Marmolata
  • Aniversary Peak
  • The Pidgeon Feathers
  • Eastpost Spire
  • Crescent Spire Traverse