The Summits! Mount Fay & The Neil Colgan Hut

Here's a Look At the Peaks We'll Climb!


Mount Fay - 3234m

West Ridge - 5.3 III

The West Ridge of Mount Fay is one of the most aesthetic routes in the Valley of the Ten Peaks. From the hut, a short walk to the base of the North Face has us crossing the bergschrund guarding the peak above. Above the bergschrund we climb 4-5 pitches of either snow or alpine ice up to 50˚ to access the West Ridge proper. Once on the ridge proper we follow it, occasionally moving off onto the South Face to bypass difficulties, past a short crux (5.3), to the flatter summit ridge. Passing the large cornices overhanging the North Face we can access moving east across the summit plateau. We most often reverse the ridge descending the way we came. 


The North Face - III

There are a variety of steep alpine ice routes on the North Face of the Peak which offer a fine alternative to the West Ridge given good conditions. Ascents are often best done with either good snow coverage on the face or a good overnight freeze to minimize rockfall hazard. The Classic lines on this side of the mountain include: The Centre Ice Bulge Direct, The Roth/Kallen, and The Chouinard Route.


Mount Little - 3088m

The West Ridge of Mount Little feels like a miniature version of the West Ridge of Fay. Although shorter and less technical, it's a great way to spend the morning of our last day in the Alpine. A few pitches of steep snow gains the ridge where we shortrope up more 4th class terrain to the summit.