Conditions Report - Mount Alberta Summit Success, Japanese Route. August 2017.

 

Hey All, 

 

A quick set of conditions updates from Simon Meis' recent trip in to Guide an ascent of the Japanese Route on Mount Alberta. A bit congratulations to both Simon and our Guest Andrea Koenig on a successful summit on August 11th!

 

From Simon:

 

I guided one client up the Japanese Route on Mount Alberta a week ago reaching the summit on August 11th.

As previously report the route is generally dry and in good shape.

There was still a snow patch near the the shoulder bivi from which water bottles could be filled or snow melted. I expect this will last another week or two, it can be seen from the hut. On the route we found water in the Japanese Gully (although it had slowed to a trickle by the time we were descending).

Thanks to Jeff Bullock's timely MCR we didn't take (or need) crampons or ice axes on our summit day. We could have gotten away without them entirely although I'd still bring them in case the glacier approaching the hut became icy. We used Jeff's final two rappel stations leading to the high bivi which worked out well for us. They were 60m rope stretchers and required care in order to pull the ropes successfully.

While on the route we witnessed an isolated rock fall event which rained rocks down the gully proper during the mid morning. Fortunately we were at a sheltered locations during this incident.

I guided one client up the Japanese Route on Mount Alberta a week ago reaching the summit on August 11th.

As previously report the route is generally dry and in good shape.

There was still a snow patch near the the shoulder bivi from which water bottles could be filled or snow melted. I expect this will last another week or two, it can be seen from the hut. On the route we found water in the Japanese Gully (although it had slowed to a trickle by the time we were descending).

Thanks to Jeff Bullock's timely MCR we didn't take (or need) crampons or ice axes on our summit day. We could have gotten away without them entirely although I'd still bring them in case the glacier approaching the hut became icy. We used Jeff's final two rappel stations leading to the high bivi which worked out well for us. They were 60m rope stretchers and required care in order to pull the ropes successfully.

While on the route we witnessed an isolated rock fall event which rained rocks down the gully proper during the mid morning. Fortunately we were at a sheltered locations during this incident.

 

Play safe out there,

 

Simon Meis
IFMGA Mountain Guide
Cloud Nine Guides